Why fix things before storm season?
Kansas City's spring and early summer storms are the real test for gutters. Winter quietly loosens things: ice weighs down hangers, freeze-thaw pries at joints, and snowmelt finds every weak spot. Then April and May show up with heavy rain, hail and wind, and those small winter problems become overflow, detached sections and water in the basement.
The good news: most of what winter does is repairable, as long as you catch it. Here are the seven signs we check on pre-season repair calls. (If you're seeing problems across the whole system, read our replacement signs instead.)
1. Loose, bent or missing hangers
Hangers hold the gutter to the fascia. Ice and wet debris can bend them or pull their screws loose. Older homes often have spike-and-ferrule fasteners (long nails through the gutter) that back out over time.
What you'll see: the gutter dipping between fasteners, spikes sticking out, or a hanger hanging loose.
Repair: replace with hidden hangers screwed into solid fascia at proper spacing. If the wood won't hold a screw, it needs fascia repair first.
2. Drips at corners and end caps
On seamless gutters, corners, end caps and outlets are the only joints, so that's where leaks start. Freeze-thaw and summer heat both work the sealant loose.
What you'll see: drips from a corner during rain, streaks on siding or brick below, or a stain on the ground.
Repair: clean, reseal and re-rivet the joint. A badly bent or separated corner gets rebuilt.
3. A gap between the gutter and the fascia
The back of the gutter should sit tight to the fascia, tucked under the roof's drip edge. When it pulls away, water runs down behind the gutter instead of into it.
What you'll see: daylight between gutter and house, water stains or peeling paint on the fascia, or drips behind the gutter.
Repair: re-hang the section tight to the fascia. We also check that the drip edge directs water into the gutter.
4. A low spot that holds water
Gutters should slope slightly toward each downspout. After a winter of ice loads, a section can sag and create a low spot.
What you'll see: standing water a day or two after rain, a line of debris settled in one spot, or overflow in the middle of a run.
Repair: re-pitch and re-hang the section so it drains.
5. Clogged, crushed or disconnected downspouts
Downspouts take a beating in winter: ice can block them, and they get bumped by snow shovels and mowers. Elbows can separate.
What you'll see: water backing up at the outlet, a downspout that sounds dull when tapped, pieces that have pulled apart, or water gushing from a seam halfway down.
Repair: clear the clog, reconnect or replace the damaged pieces. If the outlet is too small for the roof, we may suggest a 3x4 downspout. See downspout installation.
6. Missing or short downspout extensions
This one isn't technically a gutter repair, but it's the most common drainage problem we see. Extensions get knocked off, mowed over or removed and never put back. Then every gallon off the roof lands right at the foundation.
What you'll see: a downspout ending at the base of the wall, a hole or washout under the outlet, or a damp basement wall on that corner.
Repair: reattach or replace extensions so water discharges well away from the house. Read where should downspouts drain? for distances and options.
7. Small dents, splits or holes
Falling limbs, ladders, hail and ice can dent or split gutters.
What you'll see: visible dents, a pinhole drip, or a crack, often near a corner.
Repair: cosmetic dents can be left alone. Dents that crimp the bottom and slow water, splits and holes get patched, or the affected run gets replaced with a new seamless section in a matching color.
Pre-season checklist
| Check | From where | Repair if you see |
|---|---|---|
| Hangers | Ground, looking up the run | Dips, loose or missing hangers |
| Corners and end caps | Ground during rain | Drips or streaks |
| Gutter-to-fascia gap | Ground or upstairs window | Daylight, stains, peeling paint |
| Standing water | Upstairs window or safe ladder | Water a day after rain |
| Downspouts | Ground | Separation, dents, backups |
| Extensions | Ground | Missing, short or crushed |
| Dents and splits | Ground | Crimped bottoms, holes, cracks |
Don't forget the cleaning
A repair doesn't help much if the gutter is half full of oak tassels and last fall's leaves. Late winter or early spring is a good time for a cleaning too; we can handle both in one visit. See our seasonal cleaning guide.
When it's more than a repair
If you find several of these on every side of the house, repairs may just be buying time. That's a judgment call, and we'll lay out both options with prices. Our repair vs. replace guide explains how we decide.
Get it fixed before the storms
Book a gutter repair visit in late winter or early spring and you'll be ahead of the rush. If a storm has already done damage, see storm damage gutter repair. We do repair work across the metro, including Lee's Summit, Raytown and Grandview. Repairs carry our 5-year workmanship warranty. Get a free estimate.
Common questions
When is the best time for gutter repairs in Kansas City?
Late winter to early spring, after the worst freezes and before the heavy storms. That way ice damage gets fixed before it meets a downpour. Fall, before leaf drop and ice, is the second-best window.
How much does gutter repair cost?
It depends on the repair: resealing a corner, re-hanging a section, replacing a downspout. We give a written price after seeing it. If several repairs add up close to a new run, we'll show you both options.
Can I fix a leaking gutter corner myself?
Small drips at a corner can be cleaned and resealed with gutter sealant on a dry day if you're comfortable on a ladder. If the corner is bent, separated or the leak returns, it needs to be rebuilt.
What's the difference between repair and replacement signs?
Repair signs are isolated: one corner, one section, one downspout. Replacement signs are widespread: many leaking seams, sagging on most runs, rust throughout. See our replacement signs post.